How Can I Reduce Underarm Hyperpigmentation?

Dark underarms can be a source of self-consciousness for many. This pigmentation concern is characterized by darker skin in the underarm/armpit area when compared to surrounding skin is typically harmless but can affect confidence when wearing sleeveless clothing. The good news? Underarm hyperpigmentation is manageable with an intentional approach. Below, we explore the causes of dark underarms and offer practical, science-backed solutions to help you achieve smoother, more even-toned skin.

Understanding the Causes of Dark Underarms

Hyperpigmentation occurs when melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing melanin (the pigment that gives skin its color), are overstimulated, leading to excess pigment in specific areas like the underarms. Several factors can contribute to this condition:

- Friction and Irritation: Tight clothing or frequent rubbing of the skin can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), where irritation leads to increased melanin production. Shaving, especially without lubrication or with a dull razor, can also cause micro-abrasions that darken the skin over time.

- Hair Removal Practices: Repeated shaving or waxing can irritate the delicate underarm skin, contributing to dark armpits. Shaving removes hair at the surface, leaving darker hair beneath the skin visible, which may exaggerate the appearance of discoloration.

- Deodorants and Antiperspirants: Some ingredients, such as  denatured alcohol, fragrance, and essential oils, can irritate sensitive skin, leading to PIH. Switching to gentler, fragrance-free options can reduce this risk.

- Dead Skin Buildup: Inadequate exfoliation can cause dead skin cells to accumulate, making underarms appear dull or darker. Regular cleansing and exfoliation can help prevent this.

- Hormonal Changes: Fluctuations during puberty, pregnancy, or menopause can increase melanin production, leading to underarm pigmentation.

- Genetics and Skin Tone: People with darker skin tones naturally produce more melanin, which can make underarm pigmentation more pronounced. This is called constitutional hyperpigmentation, which is natural variation in skin color influenced by genetic factors.

Recommendations for Underarm Hyperpigmentation

Addressing dark underarms involves targeting the root cause while adopting habits that promote even-toned skin. Here are practical recommendations:

1. Refine Your Hair Removal Routine

Frequent shaving or aggressive waxing can irritate the skin, worsening underarm pigmentation. To minimize irritation:

- Use a sharp, multi-blade razor with a lubricating strip or apply a moisturizing shaving medium to reduce friction. Soft Services’ Comfort Cleanse is a thin consistency that provides a hydrating slip, without clogging your razor.

- Consider less frequent hair removal methods, like trimming or laser hair reduction, which can decrease irritation and the need for constant shaving. Laser treatments have shown promise in reducing both hair growth and hyperpigmentation.

- After hair removal, apply a soothing agent like aloe vera gel or Soft Services’ Speed Soak to calm the skin and impart hydration back to skin. Comforted, balanced skin means a smaller chance of PIH.

2. Exfoliate Gently and Regularly

- Dead skin buildup can contribute to the appearance of dark armpits. Gentle exfoliation removes dead cells, revealing brighter skin while decreasing the chance of irritation (which can then lead to PIH.Here are a few exfoliation best practices to consider: Use a mild chemical exfoliant containing lactic acid or glycolic acid a few times a week, 1-3 times depending on how your skin tolerates exfoliation. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) promote cell turnover and slough away buildup at the surface of skin.

- Avoid over-exfoliation, which can irritate the skin and worsen pigmentation.

- For physical exfoliation, a soft washcloth or a gentle scrub like Soft Services’ Affogato L’Orange Buffing Bar will do the job without the harsh effects. Always follow up exfoliation with a fragrance-free moisturizer to reduce irritation, hydrate skin, and lock in moisture.

3. Assess Your Deodorant

Deodorants or antiperspirants can have ingredients that may be sensitizing to some, like alcohol, fragrances, baking soda, or aluminum. If you’ve experienced itchiness, redness, or increased hyperpigmentation in the underarms, opt for:

- Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free deodorants formulated for sensitive skin. Look for ingredients like glycerin or aloe which soothe the skin.

- Aluminum-free deodorants. While aluminum is often demonized, it is a safe ingredient to use. However, some do find that it irritates or dries their skin. Opting for an aluminum-free formula will help keep odor at bay (though it will not prevent wetness, since this is aluminum’s role in an anti-perspirant).

4. Incorporate Targeted Skincare Ingredients

Certain topical ingredients can help lighten underarm pigmentation by reducing melanin production and promoting skin cell turnover:

- Lactic Acid: A gentle chemical exfoliant that removes dead skin and brightens skin over time . Studies show AHAs improve skin tone with regular use.

- Azelaic Acid: Reduces inflammation and melanin production, making it effective for PIH. It’s well-tolerated by most skin types.

- Niacinamide: A form of vitamin B3 that can reduce pigmentation and improve skin barrier function. Research supports its use for hyperpigmentation.

- Retinol: Increases cell turnover to reveal bright, new skin and helps reduce discoloration with dedicated, consistent use. To avoid irritation, start with a low concentration and introduce it into your routine gradually. Soft Services’ Software Update features 0.25% pure retinol to speed up collagen production and skin cell turnover, alongside 5% niacinamide (mentioned above).

5. Adopt Preventive Lifestyle Habits

Preventing further darkening is key to maintaining results:

- Wear loose, breathable clothing made of natural fibers like cotton to minimize friction.- Maintain a healthy weight to reduce the risk of acanthosis nigricans, as obesity is a known contributor.

- Cleanse underarms daily to remove sweat, dirt, and product residue, which can exacerbate darkening.

- Limit sun exposure to the underarms by wearing protective clothing, as UV rays can increase melanin production as a defense mechanism.

When to See a Professional

If at-home efforts or over-the-counter products don’t improve your concern  after 8-12 weeks, or if you notice thickened skin, rapid darkening, or other symptoms, consult a dermatologist. They can assess underlying conditions like acanthosis nigricans or hormonal imbalances and recommend personalized treatments.

A Note of Patience and Care

Reducing underarm hyperpigmentation takes dedication and time. Results from topical treatments and lifestyle changes may take weeks to months to see, especially for darker skin tones prone to more pronounced pigmentation. Be gentle with your skin, and avoid unverified remedies that seem too good to be true.

The path to brighter underarms (and skin overall) starts with informed, consistent care. By understanding the causes of dark armpits and adopting a tailored approach, you can work toward smoother, more even-toned underarms, whether through better lifestyle habits, professional guidance, or an intentional and targeted skincare routine.